Wine Time

Dennis Sodomka is a guest columnist | Contact Dennis

Wine Time: The Federalist Dueling Pistols 2009, Sonoma

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COST: $34-$36

WHAT: One of the tests I like to give a Zinfandel is to see how versatile it is. Most any Zin can handle a hamburger, but not many taste good with a hamburger and something more delicate, such as chicken or a nice soup.

The Federalist Dueling Pistols 2009 aced the test, probably because it’s half Zin and half Syrah. The wine is big and bold enough to handle a burger, but the Syrah gives it enough silk and smoothness to not overpower lighter cheese or vichyssoise.

The color is a beautiful deep garnet in the glass, and the wine has full aromas of blackberry, plum and spice. The flavors are deep and rich, favoring cherry, blackberry, black currant and some vanilla. The smooth tannins lead to a long, complex finish. The ripe fruit flavors of the Zin are tempered by the silkiness of the Syrah, making a wonderful combination.

The Syrah and the Zinfandel are fermented separately and blended after a second, malolactic fermentation. The blend then spends 15 months in 20 percent new oak barrels. The grapes come from the Dry Creek Valley in northern Sonoma, an area known for producing great Zinfandel.

Syrah and Zin make a wonderful pair, blending seamlessly, so I would expect to see more of this kind of blend.

I also like the clever marketing during an election year. The dueling pistols on the label refer to the fight between the original Federalist, Alexander Hamilton, and Aaron Burr, who dueled July 11, 1804. Hamilton died from his wounds.

The label says, “Since dueling is no longer socially acceptable we suggest solving differences over a glass of this ‘dual’ of Zinfandel and Syrah.”

That’s not a bad idea. Maybe if politicians had a glass of wine together they would behave in a more civil manner and find out both sides actually love our country.

WINERY: Dueling Pistols is made by Federalist Winery, part of a winery founded in 1981. Three friends, John Grace, Mark Rafanelli and Philip Staley, bought the site that is now the Alderbrook Estate. In 2000, the Terlato family was asked to develop a long-range plan to produce world-class wines and market Alderbrook.

The Terlatos purchased a majority share in 2000 and began upgrading and modernizing the operation. They began producing The Federalist in 2007, while still producing Alderbrook.

The winery is part of Terlato Wines International, which traces its roots back to 1938 in Chicago with a retail store. After purchasing a California wine company, the family business became a leading national distributor of fine wines.

To help the distribution business, Paterno Wines International began importing French and Italian wines. In 1979, it launched Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio in the U.S. market. At that time Pinot Grigio was virtually unknown in this country, but now it is the fastest growing varietal. Santa Margherita is one of the top-selling Pinot Grigios in the country.

The company continued to expand and now imports and distributes wine from around the world and many regions of the United States. In 2007, the name changed to Terlato Wines International.

In the 1990s, the company started buying wineries, beginning with Rutherford Hill. It now owns half a dozen wineries and holds majority or minority interests in many others.

Terlato also has formed partnerships with golfers Luke Donald and Jack Nicklaus, producing wine under each golfer’s name.

Dueling Pistols is the Federalist’s second wine, the first being the 100 percent Zinfandel Visionary, now in its second vintage. The company also recently released a Chardonnay.

Owned and managed by the Terlato family, the Federalist is set up to produce single vineyard and estate wines, with a focus on Zinfandel.

GOES WITH: Teri and I had Dueling Pistols with Sloppy Joe sandwiches, potato chips and salads. I believe in drinking great wine with everyday meals, and this was an excellent match.

The smooth silkiness of the wine cut through the spice of the sauce and made a perfect combination in a way I don’t think would have been possible with a straight Zin.

I also tried this with a vichyssoise I made by combining recipes from Julia Child and Emeril Lagasse with some of my own ideas. The taste of the wine and the soup together was sublime.

You also could serve it with other grilled meats, hard cheeses and some hearty salads.

WINE EVENTS

OCT. 11

Wine and tapas tasting, 5-6:30 p.m., La Maison on Telfair, 404 Telfair St.; four wines and three tapas; $19.99; (706) 722-4805

OCT. 12

Wine tasting, 7 p.m., Wine World, 133 Georgia Ave., North Augusta; wines from Burgundy presented by Jean-Pierre Chambas, $22 with advance reservation, $30 at the door if space available; (803) 279-9522

Wine and beer tasting, 4:30-6:30 p.m., Vineyard Wine Market, 4414 Evans to Locks Road, Evans; (706) 922-9463

OCT. 13

7th annual CoCo Culinary and Wine Festival, 1-4 p.m., Savannah Rapids Pavillion, Columbia County; more than 100 wines, a tasting glass to keep, food prepared by local chefs, music; $35; (706) 829-1343

OCT. 18

Wine tasting, 5-8 p.m., Wine World, 133 Georgia Ave., North Augusta; three white wines and three reds and matching cheeses, $5 with $3 rebate on purchase of a featured wine; (803) 279-9522

OCT. 21

Georgia Wine Trail bus trip, 9:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., leaves from Vineyard Wine Market, 4414 Evans to Locks Road, Evans, and stops at several wineries; $30, payable upon registration,
(706) 922-9463

OCT. 25

Wine dinner, 6:30 p.m., Calvert’s Restaurant, 475 Highland Ave.; wines from Blackbird Vineyards; reservations, (706) 724-1442

Wine tasting, 7 p.m., Vineyard Wine Market, 4414 Evans to Locks Road, Evans; wines from Australia’s Penfold’s including Grange; reservations, (706)
922-9463

OCT. 26

Beer Tasting, 5-8 p.m., Wine World, 133 Georgia Ave., North Augusta; $5 with $2 rebate on purchase of six bottles of the featured beers; (803) 279-9522


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