Lunch Money: Villa Europa

You get German soul food at Villa Europa, 3044 Deans Bridge Road.

When it turns cooler out, this is the go-to place in Augusta for hearty and filling German and Italian fare. The one must-have for a meal here is the French onion soup, the best in Augusta. Its rich, dark broth is served in a crock and topped with dark bread and what to a cardiologist must be an alarming amount of melting cheese.

It's a meal in itself, (cost, $4.25), but on a recent visit with Lunch Buddy Donna, I paired it with a schnitzel (a breaded fried pork cutlet) on rye bread sandwich ($7.95), accompanied by Villa Europa's incredibly tart and filling German potato salad.

This is not a meal to be eaten daily if you want arteries that function on a continuing basis, but it's one of my favorite indulgences. I can rationalize away the calories and cholesterol by noting that I had an iced tea ($1.65) without sugar, and had put in my 45 minutes on the exercise bike that morning.

Donna had a thoroughly satisfying Greek salad ($5.95) and a cup of the soup of the day (potato, $2.25).

Villa Europa is a longtime Augusta favorite that is showing its age in spots, but aren't we all? The décor is worn in a few places, but the restaurant is immaculately clean and comfortable.

The waiters were friendly and attuned to the customers. They had us seated, served and out of there within 45 minutes, perfect for a fast midweek lunch break.

Lunch hours are 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday-Friday. Villa Europa is open for dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday, and noon to 9 p.m. Sundays. Call (706) 798-6211, or see villaeuropa.com.

THE LUNCH LINE

WHAT: Villa Europa

WHERE: 3044 Deans Bridge Road

REASON TO GO: Best French onion soup in Augusta

SERVICE: 4 out of 5

FOOD: 4.5

VALUE: 3

INSPECTION GRADE: 90

LEARN MORE: (706) 798-6211; villaeuropa.com

SMALL BITES

Here's a sampling of recent Lunch Money offerings:

Rhinehart's Oyster Bar

WHERE: 3051 Washington Road

WHAT: Seafood shanty favorites

AMBIENCE: About as funky a restaurant as you will find this side of Tybee Island

REASON TO GO: Perfect place to hang out, talk and chow down

SERVICE: 4

VALUE: 4

EATS: 4.5

INSPECTION SCORE: 86

CALL: (706) 860-2337, or www.rhineharts.com

Roadrunner Cafe

WHERE: 2508 Peach Orchard Road

REASON TO GO: Great burgers, fast and friendly service

SERVICE: 4

FOOD: 3.5

VALUE: 4

INSPECTION GRADE: 87

CALL: (706) 790-8177; roadrunnercafe.com

Sunshine Bakery 1209 Room

WHERE: 1209 Broad St.

REASON TO GO: Classic delicatessen, super soups

SERVICE: 3

FOOD: 3

VALUE: 3

CALL: (706) 724-2302

INSPECTION GRADE: 100

Wasabi Express

WHERE: 2838 Washington Road

REASON TO GO: Oriental fare served fast

SERVICE: 3

FOOD: 2.5

VALUE: 2.5

CALL: (706) 667-0034

ONLINE EXTRA: To see recent health inspection scores for other restaurants, go to augustachronicle.com/metro/data/restaurants">style="bold">augustachronicle.com/metro/data/restaurants .

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