When fat is cut from recipes, flavor can follow. That's when spices become the key to making lighter foods taste great, and if you want to get the most out of your spices, it's best to follow a few simple tips.

Try to buy whole spices, says the author of 660 Curries. Spices get their flavor from the oils inside. After the spices are ground, the oils lose potency, which means freshly ground peppercorns pack more flavor than pepper purchased ground.

Whole spices also are a better value. Stored in airtight, glass containers away from heat, whole spices will stay fresh for at least a year, he said. Ground spices last for only a few months.

Buy spices from the bulk section of a natural food store so you can buy only what you need for a short period. Prices for bulk tend to be lower than for packaged.

For grinding whole spices, a mortar and pestle are nice, but an inexpensive electric coffee grinder is faster and convenient.

Mr. Iyer's recipe for curried chickpeas in coconut sauce gets a burst of flavor from a freshly ground blend of pan-roasted chilies and coriander seeds.

The curry, which can be served as a side or main course, is traditionally prepared in India as an offering to the goddess of learning during the Hindu celebration of lights called Diwali.

CHICKPEAS IN COCONUT SAUCE

Start to finish: 25 minutes

Servings: 8

5 teaspoons sesame oil or canola oil

2 tablespoons yellow split peas, picked over for stones

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

2-4 dried Thai or cayenne chilies, stems removed

2 cups water

1 teaspoon tamarind paste or concentrate

1 teaspoon black or yellow mustard seeds

3 cups canned or cooked chickpeas, drained

2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt or sea salt

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 cup shredded dried unsweetened coconut, reconstituted

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

In medium saucepan over medium-high, heat oil. Add peas, coriander seeds and chilies. Cook, stirring constantly, until peas and coriander seeds are reddish brown and chilies have blackened slightly, 1-2 minutes.

Remove pan from heat. Using slotted spoon, skim off spices and transfer to plate to cool for about 5 minutes. Don't discard oil.

After spices are cool, put them in spice grinder and grind until texture resembles that of finely ground black pepper.

In medium bowl, combine water and tamarind paste. Whisk to dissolve tamarind.

Return saucepan to medium-high heat. When oil is warmed, add mustard seeds. Cover pan and cook until seeds have stopped popping (similar to popcorn), about 30 seconds.

Stir in chickpeas, salt and turmeric. Stir to coat chickpeas evenly with spices. Pour in tamarind water and bring to boil. Lower heat to medium and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until chickpeas absorb the flavors, 8-10 minutes. Stir in ground spices, coconut and cilantro.

-- Recipe adapted from Raghavan Iyer's 660 Curries, Workman Publishing, 2008