It's difficult to imagine a foodstuff more shrouded in mystery than mushrooms. The phrase "to mushroom" is appropriate: Mushrooms seem to spring up overnight, seemingly out of nowhere.

This ethereal quality is compounded by other peculiarities of the fungi: Mushrooms appear to have no roots. Many grow in rings. Some contain enough phosphorus to glow in the dark. Add the facts that certain species are deadly toxic and others cause wild hallucinations, and it's no wonder people long regarded them as "other-worldly."

Egyptian Pharaohs declared them sacred and strictly off-limits to anyone but themselves. Ancient Romans also considered them food for the gods but, being the more democratic sort, allowed anyone to eat them on holidays.

Many wild mushrooms are worth pursuing for the weekend forager. For example, with a little homework, you can learn to distinguish the highly prized morel from its not-so-appetizing look-alike, the "false morel," which probably won't kill you but could make you sick enough to momentarily wish you were dead.

Some clarifications for those of us who do our mushroom hunting in supermarkets: Cépe is the French way to say porcini, and portobellos are cremini that have fully expanded in both size and price. The common button variety can be greatly enhanced by adding a few wild mushrooms (either fresh or rehydrated dried ones). Though mushrooms often appear dirty, resist the temptation to give them a good soaking; brush them instead, or rinse gingerly. They're highly porous, and water will dilute their flavor.

CHINESE STYLE STIR-FRIED MUSHROOMS

Shiitake stems can be tough; remove them or trim the tough bottom part. Stir-fry in a very hot skillet so they don't water out. Serve over beef, chicken, tofu or Asian noodles.

1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil

1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

2 teaspoons minced garlic

21/2 cups shiitake, crimini, morel or enoki mushrooms

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon chopped green onion tops

Toasted sesame seeds (optional)

Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add ginger and garlic; saute 1 minute. Add mushrooms; cook, stirring frequently, until mushrooms are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add soy sauce and sesame oil; cook, stirring, until most of the soy sauce evaporates, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat; sprinkle with green onions. Top with toasted sesame seeds, if using. Serves 3.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 130 calories, 10 grams fat, 3 grams protein, 7 grams carbs, 3 grams fiber, 440 milligrams sodium.

-- Recipe from Mushroom Council, www.mushroomcouncil.com .

To find more Relish recipes, log on to relishmag.com.