Cooler temperatures inspire fall flavors
Quick Cooking
By Karin Calloway | Columnist
Wednesday, October 07, 2009

Once we have a few days in the 70-degree range I crave the flavors of fall: Apple cider, cinnamon and sweet potatoes.

This menu includes them all and is perfect for when you crave fall flavors but the weather is still perfect for cooking outdoors.

You'll likely want to begin preparation on Saturday, since an overnight brine soak makes the pork flavorful, moist and juicy.

Brining is a technique in which meat is soaked in a salt or sugar water solution. I'm adding flavor to the brine: Apple cider, real maple syrup and fresh sage.

You can brine the pork from three to 12 hours in the refrigerator. Rinse the meat after brining to remove residual salt.

Before grilling, use a flavorful rub with sweet spices including cinnamon and nutmeg.

I like to serve the pork with grilled sweet potatoes and crisp summer squash slaw.

Reach Karin Calloway at karin.calloway@comcast.net. See her prepare the recipe at noon Tuesday on television station WJBF (Channel 6). Follow her on Twitter at twitter.com/karincalloway.

CIDER BRINED PORK TENDERLOIN

Brine

3 cups apple cider or natural apple juice

2 cups water

1/4 cup coarse sea or kosher salt

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper

6 fresh sage leaves, sliced into thin slivers, or 1 teaspoon rubbed dried sage

Other ingredients

2 pork tenderloins, about 1 1/2 pounds, well trimmed, washed and dried with paper towels

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic (about 3 large cloves)

2 teaspoons coarse sea salt or kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Combine the brine ingredients in a 2-gallon zip-top freezer bag, squeezing well. Add the tenderloins, seal bag tightly and refrigerate.

Heat grill on high heat. Remove the tenderloin and discard the brine. Rinse off the tenderloins, pat dry with paper towels and place on a cutting board or large baking sheet. Combine the olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper, nutmeg and cinnamon in a small bowl. Massage the mixture into the tenderloins. Reduce grill heat to medium, place tenderloins on grill and cook for 15 minutes, turn, and grill for 15 minutes more, or until internal temperature of 145 degrees is reached. Set tenderloins aside for 10 minutes. Slice on the diagonal and serve.

Makes 6 servings.

COOKING 101

Why brining makes meats juicier is definitely food science, but basically the liquid soaks into the meat, adding to the juiciness, while the salt dissolves some of the proteins in the meat. If you really want to understand the science behind this popular technique, see Shirley O. Corriher's book CookWise. Mrs. Corriher, a biochemist, outlines many of the reactions that occur during cooking while sharing some great fool-proof recipes. I've had the book since it debuted in 1997 and whenever I have a cooking quandary, such as chocolate that seizes up while melting, I'll tell the kids to go get "Shirley O" and they know exactly what I'm talking about.

GINGERED SUMMER SQUASH SLAW

2 small yellow squash, scrubbed, ends and seeds removed and julienned

2 small zucchini, scrubbed, ends and seeds removed and julienned

1 small red bell pepper, washed, cored, seeds removed and julienned

1 cup snow peas, washed, ends removed and julienned

1 medium carrot, washed, peeled and julienned

2 green onions, chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger or prepared ginger puree

1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

1/4 cup canola oil or fat-free Italian dressing

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon honey or 2 packets artificial sweetener

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Place the julienned squash, red bell pepper, snow peas and carrot and chopped green onion in a large bowl or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. Combine the mint, ginger, vinegar, oil or dressing, soy sauce and honey or artificial sweetener in a bowl. Pour over the vegetables, sprinkle with the salt and ground black pepper and toss well. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Makes 8 servings. Salad can be prepared up to 24 hours before serving.

GRILLED SWEET POTATOES

2 pounds sweet potatoes, scrubbed

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt, divided

1/4 cup olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pinch cayenne pepper

Place potatoes in a Dutch oven. Cover with water and add 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil and then simmer, covered, until a knife inserted into a potato comes out fairly easily with some resistance, about 20 minutes. Drain. Rinse the potatoes with cold water. When cool enough to handle, peel and slice crosswise into 1/2-inch thick slices.

Oil the grill grate and heat grill. Combine the oil, 1 teaspoon salt, black pepper, cinnamon and cayenne pepper in a small bowl. Brush both sides of the potatoes with the oil mixture. Reserve remaining oil. Grill until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Place on a serving platter and drizzle with olive oil mixture.

Makes 6 servings.

From the Wednesday, October 07, 2009 edition of the Augusta Chronicle
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