Figs might well be the first fruit ever enjoyed by mankind. They are native to Turkey, and digs in the Jordan Valley suggest that figs were domesticated nearly a thousand years before wheat or barley.

When Adam discovered his nakedness in the Garden of Eden, a handy fig leaf restored his dignity. (Some say the "apple" was actually a fig.) Cleopatra hid the poisonous asp she used to end her life in a basket of figs, a notable departure from the fig's more common use as a symbol for peace and prosperity.

The Spanish planted figs in Mexico in the mid-16th century, and when Franciscan monks established missions in California, they had figs in tow. Hence, the dark-skinned Smyrna (originally from Turkey) became known in this country as the mission fig. California continues to be the largest producer in the U.S.

When buying fresh figs, pick ones with a honey-sweet smell that yield softly to the touch.

Because they're fully ripe when shipped, figs are often a little sticky. To serve figs, slash an X in the stem end, cutting about two-thirds of the way toward the base, then gently squeeze the base to create "petals" of flesh. It's hard to imagine a nicer addition to a cheese tray.

CHICKEN-FIG TAGINE

Tagines are slow-cooked Moroccan-style stews. Serve with green beans, cous-cous to soak up the flavorful broth, and cilantro salsa. Serves 4

For the tagine:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 chicken leg quarters

2 chicken breast halves

2 teaspoons cumin seed

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

1 large sweet potato, peeled and coarsely chopped

8 to 10 dried figs, stems removed, halved

3 cups lower-sodium chicken broth

Juice and grated zest of 1 orange

1 tablespoon honey

For the cilantro salsa:

2 onions, quartered

5 garlic cloves, peeled

Juice of 1 lemon

1 bunch cilantro, washed, stems included

1/2 to 1 jalapeno pepper

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon cumin

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 orange, peeled, sectioned and diced

6 to 8 fresh figs, stems removed, cut into eighths

To prepare tagine, heat olive oil in a large heavy skillet. Add chicken and saute 2 to 4 minutes per side. As each piece is browned, transfer to slow cooker. Scatter spices and garlic over chicken. Tuck onion, sweet potato and figs among the chicken pieces. Heat chicken broth in skillet, scraping to loosen browned bits. Pour over chicken and vegetables; add orange juice, zest and honey. Cover and cook 6 to 7 hours on low or 3 to 4 hours on high.

To prepare salsa, combine onions, garlic, lemon juice, cilantro, jalapeno, salt, cumin and oil in food processor and process, pausing to scrape sides, until a smooth paste is formed. Transfer to a bowl and stir in orange sections and figs.

-- Recipe by Crescent Dragonwagon

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 540 calories, 16 grams fat, 33 grams protein, 66 grams carbohydrates, 10 grams fiber and 985 milligrams sodium.

Look for Relish Magazine, celebrating America's love of food, each first Wednesday in The Augusta Chronicle. For more Relish recipes, log on to relishmag.com.