To most people, amaryllis is known as the Christmas flower. Many gardeners give the bulbs as holiday gifts.

Instead of planting them indoors in a pot, a better choice is to plant them in the garden, where they have been known to produce flowers for up to 75 years.

Amaryllis requires semishade and will grow in almost any soil as long as it receives adequate moisture and good drainage. They grow best and produce better when planted in 6-inch amended, raised beds.

The optimal time to plant them outdoors is late summer through early to mid-October, but any time after the last frost in the spring works well.

Bulbs should be planted about a foot apart, with half of the bulb left exposed. Amaryllis bulbs multiply rapidly, so they should be divided about every three to five years after the foliage has died back.

The newly divided bulbs can be used to expand your beds, shared with friends or taken to a plant swap. You can also pot up a few in September for forcing as indoor winter blooming plants.

Fertilize amaryllis with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10, 5-10-15, 6-12-12, or an organic equivalent. Apply 1.5 pounds per 100 square feet.

Too much nitrogen and too much shade usually results in poor flowering. Make the first application when new growth begins, another when stalks are 6-8 inches tall and another immediately after flowering.

Plants should be mulched heavily in the winter. In March, when new growth begins, carefully rake away some of the mulch.

Amaryllis blooms can be cut when partially open and placed in clear vases for enjoyment. The flowers will last for weeks in a vase, provided the water is changed daily.

When plants finish flowering, remove the flower stalks but not the leaves. The plant needs the leaves for photosynthesis to produce next year's blooms.

Tomato crop

How did your tomatoes do this year?

I planted mine late and they are still hanging in there.

From what I have heard, many gardeners did not fare so well this year. It was too hot early, and tomatoes just don't like 100-degree days,

Take some time to make notes that will help you improve next year's crop.

Did your tomatoes have white, hard spots on them? Were the fruits small, or did they fall off in the bloom stage? If so, your plants may not have received proper fertilization.

A soil test is a key to great tomatoes. Take a soil sample in October or November.

One of the most common problems in growing tomatoes is blossom end rot, which is caused by inadequate calcium levels or letting the plants dry out too much. The soil sample will show whether the calcium levels were adequate in your garden.

Near the end of your tomato growing season, pick off all the tomato blossoms that won't have time to bear fruit. That way, the plants' nutrients will go into the existing tomatoes.

Before you put up your tomato cages, spray them with a 15 percent bleach solution. That will prevent them carrying over this year's disease to next year's plants.

Sid Mullis is the director of the University of Georgia Extension Service Office for Richmond County. Call him at (706) 821-2349 or send e-mail to smullis@uga.edu.