A star in the universe of tropical fruits, the papaya rockets from seed to a 20-foot-tall, fruit-bearing tree in less than 18 months.

It's native to the lowlands of Central America. The Spanish and Portuguese propagated it on Pacific islands, further dissemination took it across the Atlantic, and today, it's grown in tropical areas around the globe.

In appearance, individual strains vary. One variety is yellow-skinned, roughly the size and shape of a mango. Another is a green, football-shape fruit weighing up to 20 pounds. All papayas have a mild taste that could be described as peachy or melonlike.

Unripe fruit is used in salads, cooked like a vegetable or made into pickles.

Ripe papayas will yield slightly to pressure. Under-ripe fruit can be ripened at room temperature in a sealed paper bag. The blackish seeds are generally scooped from the center and discarded, but they have a peppery taste and can be pureed into your favorite vinaigrette.

SPICY CATFISH WITH TROPICAL FRUIT SALSA

Fish:

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 (6-ounce) catfish fillets

Salsa:

1 cup chopped ripe papaya or mango

1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro

1 1/2 teaspoons minced jalapeno pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons minced green onions

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Heat broiler. To prepare fish, combine garlic, salt, black and red peppers, paprika and oil in a small bowl. Press pepper mixture onto catfish.

Place fillets in a baking pan and broil until opaque in the center, 6 to 8 minutes.

To prepare salsa, combine papaya, cilantro, jalapeno pepper and green onions in a bowl.

Drizzle with lime juice; toss to coat evenly.

Serve with catfish.

Recipe from The Catfish Institute.

Look for Relish magazine, celebrating America's love of food, on first Wednesdays in The Augusta Chronicle. For more Relish recipes, log on to relishmag.com.