In French, the word for "bean" is haricot , and "green" is vert , so if you've wondered whether haricots verts is just a gourmet way of saying "green beans," the answer is yes, and no.

The French cultivar is thinner than American varieties and has a tangy, more intense flavor. Some times of the year, haricots verts (pronounced ah-ree-koh VERH) are prohibitively expensive (on a recent shopping trip, they were $4 more a pound than regular green beans); you can substitute the standard variety with favorable results.

Native to Central America, haricots have been domesticated for 5,000 years, and numerous varieties were grown throughout the Americas by the time Europeans arrived.

Today, haricots are the most widely cultivated legume in Europe and North America, earning their other moniker, "common bean." Some varieties are grown to be eaten in the pod; others, for their dried seed.

Among the ranks of haricots are navy beans, black beans, red beans, kidney beans, pintos, cranberry beans and Anasazi beans. The Chinese broad bean and the Italian fava are a different species, widespread in the Old World long before the haricot was "discovered."

Oh, and do you wonder what happened to Grandma's "string beans"? For the most part, the strings have been bred out of them. The term "snap bean" comes from the sound the bean makes when snapped in half. Wax beans are a pale-yellow variety of green bean.

GREEN BEAN SALAD WITH TOMATOES AND GREEN ONIONS

Fresh al dente green beans or haricots verts update this bean salad that everyone will love:

1/2 pound green beans or haricots verts, trimmed and cut diagonally in thirds (about 2 cups)

1 (15 1/2-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

1 (15 1/2-ounce) can pinto beans, rinsed and drained

2 large plum tomatoes, diced (about 1 1/2 cups)

5 green onions, thinly sliced

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 garlic clove, pressed

1/2 teaspoon salt

Coarsely ground black pepper

Steam beans, covered, in steamer basket over boiling water 5 to 7 minutes, or until crisp-tender.

Rinse under cold water and drain well. Combine green beans, cannellini and pinto beans, tomatoes, green onions and cilantro in a large bowl.

Whisk remaining ingredients together in a small bowl. Pour over salad and mix gently.

Serves 4 to 6.

-- Recipe by Jean Kressy

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 300 calories, 12 grams fat, 12 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 13 grams fiber and 720 milligrams sodium.

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