The term "free-range" brings to mind verdant pastures, blue skies and chickens happily milling about. In reality, it can be a very different picture.
The term was originally used in ranch country as a legal description of areas where herds could be grazed without fences. Though beef, bison and other meat show up in the store as "free-range," the U.S. Department of Agriculture sets free-range standards only for poultry. These standards require only that birds have some access to the outdoors.
On some farms, they're given access to grasslands and unlimited exercise. But in large-scale operations (including organic ones), they might be kept in the coop for the first five weeks of their lives, by which time feeding routines are firmly established. Since they're often slaughtered at seven weeks, the birds never develop the habit of stepping out the door.
If you find an artisan farmer whose chickens actually roam around eating what chickens were intended to eat (grass, grubs and insects), you might discover that the meat is remarkably different from that of their cooped-up cousins. It's probably higher in healthy omega-3 fatty acids and much tastier than your run-of-the-mill roaster. Finding pastured poultry might take some pecking around. Farmers markets are a great place to get to know local producers and find out what your dinner had for dinner.
Look for Relish magazine, celebrating America's love of food, each first Wednesday in The Augusta Chronicle. For more Relish recipes, to sign up for our biweekly newsletter, or to leave a note on our message boards, log on to relishmag.com.
CHICKEN VEGETABLE SOUP
Canned chicken broth is enhanced with garlic, onions, ginger and parsnips for a quick flavorful soup. Add shredded chicken, free-range or conventional, and dinner is done.
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
1 (2-inch) piece of ginger, peeled and chopped
3 carrots, peeled and sliced
2 parsnips, peeled and sliced
9 cups low-sodium, fat-free chicken broth
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups shredded cooked chicken
11/2 cups cooked egg noodles
Heat olive oil in a large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven over low heat. Add garlic, onions and ginger; sauté until soft and golden, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add carrots and parsnips; cook, covered, until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Add broth, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes. Add shredded chicken and noodles; simmer until thoroughly heated.
Serves 10.
-- Recipe by Margo Rudman Gold
NUTRITION PER SERVING: 160 calories, 3.5 grams fat, 16 grams protein, 45 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams fiber and 690 milligrams sodium.

