NEW YORK - Bill Blass designer Michael Vollbracht wants the ladies who lunch to embrace their sexier side.
His runway show during New York Fashion Week featured the day dresses and sporty-yet-professional pantsuits that were Blass' signature looks, alongside a lilac paisley silk print gown with embroidered straps and a cutout bodice that flashed skin under the bustline.
Safari dresses shortened to minis made them modern, while a light blue swing coat moved just the right way during Vollbracht's spring preview Tuesday.
His palette of soft neutrals, including sand, ecru and ivory with touches of soft green puts Vollbracht on target with spring trends, something he has sometimes failed to do since taking over at the Bill Blass design house two years ago.
A trio of gingham party dresses, the best being a lilac-and-white version with a hem of embroidered flowers, would be just right for the garden parties attended by traditional Blass customers.
However, the tulip skirts that pouffed out over the hips that were true to Vollbracht's 1964-era muses Jane Fonda, Catherine Deneuve and Brigitte Bardot aren't a wearable or practical shape for most women today.
As Fashion Week hit its midpoint, with shows by Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan still to come, it was announced that a "Fashion for Relief" show to benefit victims of Hurricane Katrina would be held Friday night at the tents at Bryant Park.
Participants in the event will include Naomi Campbell, Iman, Cindy Crawford, Lindsay Lohan, Nicole Richie, Molly Sims and Janice Dickinson.
Monique Lhuillier's show on Tuesday was from the '60s, with mod swing jackets paired with straight skirts and white heels. However, her real forte is eveningwear, and stylist Phillip Bloch said these dresses are "as pretty coming as they are going."
He highlighted a satin back cowl gown with a blouson top and heavily beaded straps.
Lhuillier "knows how to make a dress," Bloch said. "She's not inventing anything, she's reinterpreting."
Among her best looks: a jade Chantilly lace sleeveless pleated bodice sheath, a midnight blue chiffon ballerina dress with diamond seams, and a silk white gazar tuxedo-style cocktail dress with a ruffled halter neckline.
Also on Tuesday, Behnaz Sarafpour opened her collection with black and white - even if it was ivory. Her designs included a double-faced wool dress with black trim and bows on patch pockets, an ivory dress with embossed stripes and lace around the scoop neck, and an ivory wool jacket paired with black silk evening shorts.
The same group also featured a sleek, elegant black wool sleeveless top and slim skirt with exposed zippers.
A black eyelet leather skirt was a new way to do a classic as was a tank top that created an animal print with beads. A black-and-white houndstooth check raffia jacket and a white cotton crepe tank dress with two tiers at the bottom was a nice mix of dressy and casual, but Sarafpour's lace collar worn with a cotton tank and a hammered satin long ruffled skirt missed that mark.
Marc Jacobs' collection, which he previewed Monday night, included schoolgirl-inspired button-down shirts, pleated skirts (some with suspenders) and gabardine blazers.
Of course Jacobs added his own twists: the menswear style shirts had sheer sleeves and backs, skirts had tulle hemlines and a satin T-shirt had a deep cowl back.
Dressier styles followed, including a cream-colored embroidered skirt with oversized pockets and a thick belt, a one-shoulder metallic sweat-shirt dress and a silver tuxedo jacket with an open neck and matching short pants.
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