COST: $16-$20

WHAT: This delightfully refreshing white wine was misidentified and won an award at the Los Angeles International Wine Competition as a Roussanne nearly a decade ago. DNA testing later determined the grapes were a rare Viogner clone from the Rhone Valley in France. Pear and honeysuckle aromas lead to tastes of crisp green apple, tropical fruits, melon and apricot. The fruit is well-balanced by crisp acidity. Even though it has a rich mouth feel, it is a dry wine. Serve well chilled.

THE WINERY: Michael and David Phillips are fifth-generation growers in Lodi. Their wines are always well made, mostly in the Rhone style, though they also make outstanding zinfandels. They also have a great sense of humor, and their labels are so intriguing they make you want to pick up the wine. Luckily, the wine is even better than the label. This label includes a phantom mask on the front and a poem on the back. They also make a rouge and pink under the Incognito label. I applaud their approach because wine should be fun.

GOES WITH: Eggs Benedict, smoked salmon or a spicy tuna sushi roll. It's also a great aperitif by itself.

Reach Dennis Sodomka at dsodomka@knology.net. Read his column on zinfandel in the October issue of Augusta Magazine.