In today's wacky dessert world, in which paying $3 for a dolled-up cupcake is de rigueur, the next hot thing actually is a humble snack with a storied tradition: churros.

Spurred by an explosion of interest in all things Latino, the fried batons of dough -- traditionally sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar -- are popping up on menus across the country. When the president's daughter serves churros at her wedding, it's probably safe to say they have hit the mainstream.

Jenna Bush definitely is not alone. Entrepreneurs and big-name chefs have hopped onto the bandwagon, too, and have pushed this modest, deep-fried snack into the spotlight.

These days you can find churros on menus from coast to coast, from West LA's well-loved Literati 2 (helmed by Chris Kidder, formerly of Campanile) to New York's trendy Dos Caminos.

Churros are believed to have their origins in Spain, though they're also extremely popular in Mexico and other parts of Latin America, where they're found at street carts, markets and cafes.

The key to their appeal is their distinctive ridges, achieved with the help of a churrera , an extruder with a star-shape attachment. When the thick batter is pressed and dropped into boiling-hot oil, each ridge fries up wonderfully crisp, giving the churro its texture -- crunchy on the outside, soft and almost creamy inside.

A number of businesses have sprung up to accommodate the booming interest in the U.S.

"Five years ago, there were lots and lots of people who'd never heard of a churro, and many of the people who did know what one was had had one at Disneyland or at a ballpark," said Melanie Farkas, the owner of the 5-year-old Churro Station franchise based in San Rafael, Calif.

For years, the Tio Pepe-brand churro, shipped frozen and reheated under lamps, was the only option for Americans who wanted to sample the snack.

Ms. Farkas has built her business around the notion that fresh-fried churros are superior, but conceded, "I'll tip my hat to them -- they familiarized the American people with churros and gave people that first wonderful experience."

Ms. Farkas decided to bring fresh churros north of the border after a trip to Mexico in 2002. Susana Trilling, the director of Seasons of My Heart Cooking School in Oaxaca, Mexico, understands the appeal. She often takes her students to experience churros at the city's Mercado de Abastos, where they're eaten as a breakfast or snack food.

"They're sold in the mornings by women who carry large flat baskets on their heads," Ms. Trilling explained. "These churros are made at home and brought into the market to sell, still hot and covered with granulated sugar."

Because the pastries often are consumed with Mexican hot chocolate, the vendors follow the carts that sell bowls of hot Oaxacan chocolate with water or milk -- a pretty delicious field trip.

Churro Station will have at least five franchises open by the end of 2008, and Ms. Farkas attributes the surge in interest to the changing demographics.

"Hispanics are by far the largest minority in the U.S., and we are just starting to see the tremendous impact on our culture," she said.

The numbers support her theory. The national Hispanic population reached 44.3 million in 2006. Their numbers translate into a pretty large chunk of buying power: nearly $700 billion in 2004, according to estimates by HispanTelligence, based on an analysis of federal data.

Her customer base is changing, too. Ms. Farkas estimated that when she opened, 98 percent of her customers were Hispanic. Five years later, non-Hispanic customers have discovered churros, and she says about a third of her business is from non-Hispanic enthusiasts.

For recent immigrants, though, churros have a special resonance.

"They're really iconic in Latin America," Ms. Farkas said. "They mean a lot to people. It gets them thinking about being with their families, and we get a lot of emotional reactions. We've had people who come in and cry."

Cultural ties mean a lot, of course, but Ms. Farkas knows that in the end, it all comes down to flavor.

"You bite into this crispy crunchy pastry with its ridges, crunchy on the inside, warm and soft inside, and well, there's nothing else like them," Ms. Farkas said. "They're just perfection."

MAKE YOUR ON CHURROS AT HOME

The dough for these churros can be prepared several hours ahead (leave it covered at room temperature).

Churros are best eaten just after frying, but if you must fry them in advance, reheat them at 350 degrees for 3 to 4 minutes.

Start to finish: 1 hour (30 minutes active)

Makes: 12 to 14 churros

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for frying

1 tablespoon sugar, plus w cup

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup water

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

In a medium saucepan, combine the 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon sugar, the salt and water. Set over high heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the flour, stirring vigorously until the mixture forms a thick, smooth ball. Set aside to cool in the pan, about 30 minutes.

Once the dough has cooled, prepare the oil for frying. In a deep (at least 3 inches), heavy skillet (cast-iron is best), add vegetable oil to a depth of 1 inch. Heat over medium-high to about 375 degrees (the surface of the oil will shimmer).

While the oil heats, in a baking pan combine the remaining w cup sugar and cinnamon. Set aside.

Scoop the dough into a churrera , a cookie press fitted with a r-inch fluted opening or a heavy-duty (canvas-type) pastry bag fitted with a r-inch star tip.

Holding your pressing apparatus a few inches above the hot oil, press out a 5-inch length of dough (the end will dangle into the oil), then pull it free from the press with your fingertips.

Cook this one churro, turning occasionally, until it is deep golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the churro to paper towel to drain.

Let the churro cool for 1 minute, then break it open to check for doneness. It should be soft but not doughy inside. If so, the oil is at the correct temperature.

Press out and fry the churros 4 or 5 at a time, draining each batch on paper towels.

After the churros cool for 1 minute, roll them in the sugar and cinnamon mixture. Serve while warm.

Recipe from Rick Bayless