We usually don't make such a fuss over any dessert, but the cherry season is so short, we always feel we have to make the most of it. A handful of recipes -- muffin, upside-down cake and tart -- is ready to go at the first sign of cherries.

We remember bringing a cherry tart, warm from the oven, and a tub of vanilla ice cream to a potluck supper. Adults hurried through their meal just to get in line for dessert. Well-mannered people were seen licking their plates. A fresh cherry tart can do that to people.

If you have ever made a fresh cherry tart, you know the most important tool in your arsenal is a cherry pitter. In a pinch, a paring knife or even a paper clip will do, but a cherry pitter is best. With one quick snap of the plunger, the pit pops out.

Time spent pitting is a small price to pay for the delicious pleasure that comes from eating a homemade cherry tart.

FRESH CHERRY TART

Refrigerating the pastry dough before rolling it helps prevent it from shrinking as it bakes.

For the pastry:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup cold butter, cut into small pieces

For the cherry filling:

4 cups pitted cherries (about 1 1/3 pounds)

2/3 cup granulated sugar

11/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon confectioners' sugar

To prepare pastry, combine flour, sugar and salt in a food processor; pulse to combine. Add butter and orange rind; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 1 to 2 teaspoons of ice water; pulse until dough clumps together. Shape into a 4-inch disc; wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate about 30 minutes.

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Roll pastry into a 15-inch circle on a floured surface. Place in a 10-inch tart pan with removable bottom, letting pastry hang over the edge.

To prepare filling, combine cherries, granulated sugar and cornstarch. Spoon into pastry; fold pastry edges over filling.

Bake 40 minutes or until crust is golden and filling is bubbly. Cool on wire rack. Sift confectioners' sugar over pastry before serving.

Serves 8.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 270 calories, 11 grams fat, 3 grams protein, 42 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber and 75 milligrams sodium.

Look for Relish Magazine, celebrating America's love of food, each first Wednesday in The Augusta Chronicle. For more recipes or to sign up for the biweekly newsletter, go to relishmag.com.