Two popular ad campaigns of old revolved around people being unable to pronounce the name of a particular product.
The Poulan chain saw and Volkswagen's Touareg featured commercials in which people mispronounced the name of the product throughout.
Gundlach Bundschu (Goond-lock Bun-shoo, roughly) Winery of Sonoma County could certainly have fun with that. As it is, they're having too much fun celebrating 150 years as a family-owned and-operated winery to worry about that.
Silicon Valley Bank predicts that more than half of the wineries in the West will be under new ownership within the next 10 years, but Gundlach Bundschu -- Gun-Bun, for short -- is glad to be bucking the trend.
"It's exciting to be the new thing," said Jeff Bundschu, a sixth-generation owner and president. "We are always about reinvention and we've let each generation take the winery in a direction that will suit that generation most successfully."
In the past few years, the winery has jettisoned its second labels and all of the fruit it doesn't have control over. The result is smaller production estate wines that are distinctive and reflect the true character of its Rhinefarm Vineyard.
Those wines cost from $25 to $40 and include Chardonnay, Gewrztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Tempranillo Rose.
The Merlot is excellent, driven by vibrant fruit and crisp acidity. The wine shows plum and spiced berry fruit, and develops nicely in the glass.
The Cabernet is more than a value at $40, with a rich mouth feel and California Cab character. The Pinot Noir is very good, with a vivaciousness that should be a big hit with those who don't like their Pinot to be subtle.
"We make wine that we believe in," Mr. Bundschu said.
Gundlach Bundschu is developing one of the most in-depth vineyard tours in the region. It offers three levels of wine clubs through its Web site, www.gunbun.com.
Send your comments and questions to brian.goodell@morris.com.
PICK OF THE WEEK
Gundlach Bundschu has a world-class California Cabernet Sauvignon for $40.
Their 2005 is one of the best examples of textbook Cabernet Sauvignon you'll find, and while it's not in the "value" price range, it certainly compares favorably with many Cabs that are much more expensive.
Probably the most impressive thing about Bundschu's 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is how drinkable it is right now. It needs no decanting, although it does benefit from breathing and develops nicely in the glass.
You can pour this wine tonight and enjoy it immensely, or put it into the cellar for several years and be rewarded later. Either way, you get the benefit of a great price on a great bottle of wine.
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