Go for the food: Atlanta

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ATLANTA — A couple of miles east of downtown Atlanta on the fringe of a historic blue-collar neighborhood, Home grown serves up satisfying Southern fare in an eclectic atmosphere.

Server Brittany Hester runs food out from the kitchen at the Home grown restaurant in Atlanta. The breakfast offerings are usually traditional - biscuits, eggs, grits and pancakes - but the lunch menu often changes and includes some twists.  DAVID GOLDMAN/ASSOCIATED PRESS
DAVID GOLDMAN/ASSOCIATED PRESS
Server Brittany Hester runs food out from the kitchen at the Home grown restaurant in Atlanta. The breakfast offerings are usually traditional - biscuits, eggs, grits and pancakes - but the lunch menu often changes and includes some twists.

Atlanta’s crowded dining scene has no shortage of restaurants specializing in farm-to-table sourcing and new twists on Southern favorites. Many, though, are expensive and require reservations.

Home grown offers locally sourced Southern dishes for breakfast and lunch in a quirky, no-frills setting that feels comfortable no matter who you are. The generous portions, low prices and dependably good food attract a delightful cross-section of Atlanta: older folks who lived in the Reynoldstown neighborhood before gentrification set in, tattooed young adults with big glasses and messy hair, young families and police officers.

On a recent Sunday morning, a hook-and-ladder truck was parked on the street outside as its crew grabbed breakfast. A young boy eating with his dad in the main dining room climbed out of their booth to give a young woman his best wishes after her friends completed a spirited, almost gospellike rendition of Happy Birthday to You.

The breakfast menu is straightforward and satisfying, offering staples such as biscuits, grits, eggs and breakfast meats, along with pancakes or french toast for those who have a sweet tooth in the morning. If you’re hungrier, the fried pork chop and comfy chicken biscuit are both substantial and come smothered in a rich sausage gravy.

Lunch options change more frequently, and though they’re more likely to have a quirky twist than the very standard breakfast options, they remain pretty traditional: meatloaf, pimento cheese, trout and shrimp and grits, to name a few.

The front room is warm and inviting, with a handful of tables and a bar with stools where you can sit and read the paper or chat with other diners. On the wall is a framed menu signed by Clint Eastwood. His movie Trouble With the Curve shot scenes in the restaurant.

In the wood-paneled main dining room, four somewhat disturbing paintings along one wall immediately grab the eye. They feature four cartoon animals – a chicken, a pig, a cow and a fish – each of which drips blood after having cut part of its own body off and has a thought bubble featuring the body part prepared to eat. The pig, for example, holds a saw in one hand, his severed leg in the other and is thinking of a ham.

The other art in the room changes frequently but is generally some sort of funky take on folk art that you can buy off the walls.
The back room is also home to a small thrift store that welcomes diners to browse the T-shirts, postcards, dishes and assorted knickknacks.

Home grown, which opened several years ago, will take you off the tourist route in Atlanta to a neighborhood that’s shifting from small factories and warehouses to lofts and creative work spaces. It’s only open for breakfast and lunch, which leaves dinner open for one of the many other terrific restaurants the city has to offer.

IF YOU GO

Home grown in Atlanta is just over two hours from Augusta. Take Interstate 20 west, about 135 miles, to Exit 60. Turn right on Moreland Avenue, then left to 968 Memorial Drive SE.

The restaurant is open from 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday and 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

LEARN MORE: Call (404) 222-0455 or visit homegrownga.com.


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